Composition for bleaching or permanent waving of keratinous fibers comprising a cationic associative polyurethane

A ready-to-use composition for bleaching and/or permanently reshaping keratin fibers, comprising a mixture of at least one aqueous composition and at least one anhydrous composition comprising at least one reducing agent, wherein at least one of the anhydrous and aqueous compositions comprises at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (Ia):

• R—X—(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L′-(P′)p—X′—R′ (Ia)
• wherein:
• R and R′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrophobic groups and hydrogen;
• X and X′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups L″ and groups comprising at least one amine functional group optionally bearing at least one hydrophobic group;
• L, L′, and L″, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups derived from diisocyanates;
• P and P′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups comprising at least one amine functional group optionally bearing at least one hydrophobic group;
• Y is chosen from hydrophilic groups;
• r is an integer ranging from 1 to 100;
• and
• n, m, and p, which may be identical or different, range from 0 to 1000;
• provided that the at least one cationic associative polyurethane comprises at least one amine functional group chosen from protonated and guaternized amine functional groups, and at least one hydrophobic group.

A process for bleaching and/or permanently reshaping keratin fibers, comprising applying to the keratin fibers a ready-to-use composition comprising, in a medium suitable for bleaching, at least one reducing agent and at least one cationic associative polyurethane, and leaving the ready-to-use composition to act for an action time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, optionally rinsing the keratin fibers, washing the keratin fibers with shampoo, followed by rinsing the keratin fibers again and drying the keratin fibers, wherein in case of the permanent reshaping, after applying to the keratin fibers the ready-to-use composition, optionally applying to the keratin fibers, optionally after the rinsing, an oxidizing composition, leaving the oxidizing composition to act for an action time ranging from 1 to 20 minutes, optionally followed by washing with shampoo, rinsing again and drying,

• wherein the at least one cationic associative polyurethane is chosen from polyurethanes of formula (Ia):
• R—X—(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L′-(P′)p—X′—R′ (Ia)
• wherein:
• R and R′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrophobic groups and hydrogen;
• X and X′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups L″ and groups comprising at least one amine functional group optionally bearing at least one hydrophobic group;
• L, L′, and L″, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups derived from diisocyanates;
• P and P′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups comprising at least one amine functional group optionally bearing at least one hydrophobic group;
• Y is chosen from hydrophilic groups;
• r is an integer ranging from 1 to 100;
• and
• n, m, and p, which may be identical or different, range from 0 to 1000;
• provided that the at least one cationic associative polyurethane comprises at least one amine functional group chosen from protonated and guaternized amine functional groups, and at least one hydrophobic group.

A multi-compartment device or kit for bleaching and/or permanently reshaping human keratin fibers, comprising a first compartment comprising at least one powder or aqueous composition, and a second compartment comprising an aqueous composition,

• wherein at least one of the two compartments comprises at least one reducing agent and at least one of the two compartments comprises at least one cationic associative polyurethane;
• and
• wherein the at least one cationic associative polyurethane is chosen from polyurethanes of formula (Ia):
• R—X—(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L′-(P′)p—X′—R′ (Ia)
• wherein:
• R and R′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrophobic groups and hydrogen;
• X and X′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups L″ and groups comprising at least one amine functional group optionally bearing at least one hydrophobic group;
• L, L′, and L″, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups derived from diisocyanates;
• P and P′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups comprising at least one amine functional group optionally bearing at least one hydrophobic group;
• Y is chosen from hydrophilic groups;
• r is an integer ranging from 1 to 100;
• and
• n, m, and p, which may be identical or different, range from 0 to 1000;
• provided that the at least one cationic associative polyurethane comprises at least one amine functional group chosen from protonated and quaternized amine functional groups, and at least one hydrophobic group.