Anhydrous cosmetic composition containing a fatty phase and pro-liposomes

An anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition for application to the skin or labial mucous membrane, said anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition being in a solid form, said anhydrous makeup composition consisting essentially of a mixture of a fatty phase and a provesicular lipid phase, wherein said provesicular phase i) does not contain vesicles, ii) contains at least one amphiphilic lipid capable of forming vesicles on contact with water, and iii) optionally contains at least one additive to improve vesicle stability and permeability once they are formed, said provesicular phase being present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30 percent by weight of said anhydrous makeup composition, said fatty phase consisting of i) at least one wax which is not capable of forming vesicles and selected from the group consisting of cocoa butter, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, petrolatum waxes, ozokerite, montan wax, beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohols, hydrogenated lanolin, hydroxylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin fatty acids, acetylated lanolin alcohol, candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, Japan wax, hydrogenated ricin oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, and hydrogenated cocoa oil solid at 25° C., propylene glycol monomyristate and myristyl myristate solid at 25° C., cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mono-, di- and triglycerides solid at 25° C., stearic monoethanol amide, colophane, glycol and glycerol abietates, sucroglycerides, oleates, myristates, lanolates, stearates and dihydroxystearates of calcium, magnesium, zinc and aluminium, polyethylene wax, and ii) optionally at least one oil selected from the group consisting of paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, oils having a boiling point between 310 and 410° C., perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, ricin oil and cereal germ oils, dimethylpolysiloxane, purcellin oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, di-isopropyl adipate, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, lanolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, acetyl glycerides, octanoates and decanoates of alcohols and polyalcohols, ricinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohol, polybutylene, lanolin oil, octoxy glyceryl behenate, stearyl heptanoate, octyl palmitate, hydrogenated polyisobutane, trilaurin, dimethicone, and petrolatum, said anhydrous makeup composition being prepared by separately mixing the materials constituting the fatty phase and the materials constituting the provesicular lipid phase and then mixing the resulting two phases until a homogenous preparation is obtained, said anhydrous makeup composition also containing at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material.

A cosmetic makeup treatment process for topically applying to the skin or labial mucous membrane an anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition, said anhydrous makeup composition consisting essentially of a mixture of a fatty phase and a provesicular lipid phase wherein said provesicular phase i) does not contain vesicles, ii) contains at least one amphiphilic lipid capable of forming vesicles on contact with water, and iii) optionally contains at least one additive to improve vesicle stability and permeability once they are formed, said provesicular lipid phase being mixed with said fatty phase in an amount such that the provesicular lipid phase represents from 0.1 to 30 weight percent of said anhydrous makeup composition, said fatty phase consisting of i) at least one wax which is not capable of forming vesicles and selected from the group consisting of cocoa butter, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, petrolatum waxes, ozokerite, montan wax, beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohols, hydrogenated lanolin, hydroxylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin fatty acids, acetylated lanolin alcohol, candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, Japan wax, hydrogenated ricin oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, and hydrogenated cocoa oil solid at 25° C., propylene glycol monomyristate and myristyl myristate solid at 25° C., cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mono-, di- and triglycerides solid at 25° C., stearic monoethanol amide, colophane, glycol and glycerol abietates, sucroglycerides, oleates, myristates, lanolates, stearates and dihydroxystearates of calcium, magnesium, zinc and aluminium, polyethylene wax, and ii) optionally at least one oil selected from the group consisting of paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, oils having a boiling point between 310 and 410° C., perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, ricin oil and cereal germ oils, dimethylpolysiloxane, purcellin oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, di-isopropyl adipate, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, lanolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, acetyl glycerides, octanoates and decanoates of alcohols and polyalcohols, ricinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohol, polybutylene, lanolin oil, octoxy glyceryl behenate, stearyl heptanoate, octyl palmitate, hydrogenated polyisobutane, trilaurin, dimethicone, and petrolatum, said anhydrous makeup composition being prepared by separately mixing the materials constituting the fatty phase and the materials constituting the provesicular lipid phase and then mixing the resulting two phases until a homogenous preparation is obtained, said process comprising introducing into said anhydrous makeup composition at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material, and topically applying said anhydrous makeup composition

• (i) to skin or labial mucous membrane previously or subsequently wetted with an aqueous phase or naturally moistened by saliva or perspiration, or
• (ii) to said skin or labial mucous membrane with an applicator or sponge wetted with an aqueous phase,
• whereby vesicles comprising said at least one amphiphilic lipid are formed on said skin or labial mucous membrane.

A cosmetic makeup treatment process for topically applying to the skin or labial mucous membrane an anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition, said anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition being in a solid form, said anhydrous makeup composition consisting essentially of a mixture of a fatty phase and a provesicular lipid phase wherein said provesicular phase i) does not contain vesicles, ii) contains at least one amphiphilic lipid capable of forming vesicles on contact with water, and iii) optionally contains at least one additive to improve vesicle stability and permeability once they are formed, said provesicular lipid phase being mixed with said fatty phase in an amount such that the provesicular lipid phase represents from 0.1 to 30 weight percent of said anhydrous makeup composition, said fatty phase comprising at least one fatty body consisting of i) at least one wax which is not capable of forming vesicles and selected from the group consisting of cocoa butter, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, petrolatum waxes, ozokerite, montan wax, beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohols, hydrogenated lanolin, hydroxylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin fatty acids, acetylated lanolin alcohol, candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, Japan wax, hydrogenated ricin oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, and hydrogenated cocoa oil solid at 25° C., propylene glycol monomyristate and myristyl myristate solid at 25° C., cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mono-, di- and triglycerides solid at 25° C., stearic monoethanol amide, colophane, glycol and glycerol abietates, sucroglycerides, oleates, myristates, lanolates, stearates and dihydroxystearates of calcium, magnesium, zinc and aluminium, polyethylene wax, and ii) optionally at least one oil selected from the group consisting of paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, oils having a boiling point between 310 and 410° C., perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, ricin oil and cereal germ oils, dimethylpolysiloxane, purcellin oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, di-isopropyl adipate, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, lanolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, acetyl glycerides, octanoates and decanoates of alcohols and polyalcohols, ricinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohol, polybutylene, lanolin oil, octoxy glyceryl behenate, stearyl heptanoate, octyl palmitate, hydrogenated polyisobutane, trilaurin, dimethicone, and petrolatum, said anhydrous makeup composition being prepared by separately mixing the materials constituting the fatty phase and the materials constituting the provesicular lipid phase and then mixing the resulting two phases until a homogenous preparation is obtained, said process comprising introducing into said anhydrous makeup composition at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material, and topically applying said anhydrous makeup composition

• (i) to skin or labial mucous membrane previously or subsequently wetted with an aqueous phase or naturally moistened by saliva or perspiration, or
• (ii) to said skin or labial mucous membrane with an applicator or sponge wetted with an aqueous phase,
• whereby vesicles comprising said at least one amphiphilic lipid are formed on said skin or labial mucous membrane.