Method and apparatus for producing custom manufactured items

A method for custom manufacturing a garment comprising the steps of:

• determining a position for each of a number of pattern points on each piece of said garment to define a standard garment;
• assessing a subject by measuring the subject's size and determining the subject's body type and style preferences;
• modifying the positions of said pattern points as a function of the size, body type and style preference of the subject who is to wear said garment, said modifying step performed by the substeps of identifying critical pattern points for each piece of said garment, correlating these critical pattern points to one or more specific subject measurements, moving, if necessary, the critical points a distance dictated by the one or more specific subject measurements, and repositioning other pattern points based on movement of the critical pattern points;
• and
• cutting each piece by moving an automated cutter in relation to a piece of material from which said garment is to be made, said moving controlled by a programmable controller programmed to move said cutter along a path related to said modified position of said pattern points.

Apparatus for computerized manufacturing of garments from a number of individual garment pieces comprising:

• means for storing a standard relative positioning between pattern points on each piece of said garment;
• means for modifying the standard relative positioning of said pattern points for each garment piece based upon the size of a person who is to wear said garment;
• said means for modifying including means for determining which critical pattern points to move based upon the size of the person and for re-adjusting the standard positioning of pattern points affected by movement of the critial pattern points;
• means for controlling a sequence of movements of a laser cutter used to cut out said pieces from a layer of material;
• and
• means for generating an input to said means for controlling based upon said modified relative position of said pattern points.

Apparatus for automated fabrication of an article of apparel comprising:

• a first computer for storing a standard positioning between a number of pattern points for one or more pieces of said article;
• said first computer having means for modifying the relative positioning of a subset of the number of standard pattern points in response to an input to said computer, said input related to a modification in the size of said one or more pieces;
• means for calculating modified positions for others of said standard pattern points based upon the modified position of the subset of standard pattern points;
• means for moving a material along a flat surface on which it can be cut;
• an automated cutter for cutting said material on said flat surface;
• means for controllably moving said cutter in relation to said material on said surface along paths dictated by said modified position of the pattern points, said means for moving including a second computer specifically dedicated to controlling a cutter movement;
• and
• means for generating an input to said second computer, said means for generating communicating with said first computer to utilize the modified pattern point positions in generating said input.

A method for fabricating an article of manufacture comprising the steps of:

• determining a standard position for each of a number of pattern points on a pattern for a standard article of manufacture;
• planning a modified article of manufacture by adjusting one or more dimensions of the standard;
• modifying the positions of only those points whose relative position is changed by adjusting the dimensions of said article;
• and
• cutting said article by moving a laser cutter in relation to a piece of material from which said article is to be made, said moving controlled by a programmable controller programmed to move said laser cutter along a path related to said modified position of said pattern points.

Apparatus for computerized fabrication of an article of manufacture comprising:

• means for storing a relative position between pattern points on a standard of said article;
• means for modifying the relative position of certain ones but not all of said pattern points based upon one or more altered dimensions of said article to be fabricated;
• means for relatively positioning those pattern points of the article affected by the movement of said certain ones of said pattern points;
• means for controlling a sequence of movements of an automated cutter used to cut out said article from a layer of material;
• and
• means for generating an input to said means for controlling based upon said modified pattern points.

A method for automated pattern grading and manufacture of an item of apparel comprising the steps of:

• measuring a subject and recording specified measurements;
• determining if said specified measurements require alterations of pattern points that define the standard graded item of apparel;
• if the specified measurements do require an alteration, calculating modified positions for one or more pattern points whose relative position are affected by the alteration;
• storing both modified and unmodified pattern point positions to define a custom item of apparel;
• and
• directing an automated fabric cutter to cut at least one layer of fabric along a path defined by the modified and unmodified pattern point positions.

Apparatus for custom pattern grading and manufacture of an item of apparel comprising:

• means for storing specified measurements of a subject who is to wear the item of apparel;
• means for determining if said specified measurements require alterations of pattern points that define a standard graded item of apparel;
• means for calculating modified positions for one or more pattern points if the relative position of the one or more points are affected by the specified measurements;
• means for storing both modified and unmodified pattern point positions to define the custom graded item of apparel;
• and
• means to automatically cut at least one layer of fabric along a path defined by the modified and unmodified pattern point positions.