Machine for sewing together workpiece parts having edges of equal or unequal length by means of a bead seam

In a machine for sewing together true moccasin shoe parts including a vamp and a plug, comprising:

• a housing including a stand, a work supporting arm extending from said stand, a bracket arm carrying an arm shaft and ending in a sewing head;
• lockstitch forming means including a needle and a barrel shuttle;
• a toothed feed dog cooperating with said plug;
• adjusting means for said feed dog cooperating with said plug for determining the stitch length;
• an upper feed dog operating in a four motion path adjacent and opposite to said needle and having a toothed base for imparting longitudinal work compressing motions to said vamp;
• means for adjusting the longitudinal work compressing motions of said upper feed dog;
• and an intermediate member arranged between said feed dog for said plug and said upper feed dog and in front of the path of motion of said needle for preventing a ruffling of said plug by said upper feed dog;
• means for forming a bead seam by means of a plug having a foldable margin protruding the edge of said vamp and comprising:
• a second intermediate member attached to said upper feed dog and having a sliding surface and toothed at the base like said upper feed dog and located between said vamp and said folded margin of said plug and in front of the path of said needle;
• an edge guide having a forming edge for prefolding said margin of said plug;
• auxiliary ruffling means for folding said prefolded margin of said plug about the edge of said vamp and said second intermediate member and including a ruffle finger with teeth arranged at the base of said finger and perpendicular to the feed direction and having a cutaway portion for said needle, a two-armed lever with one arm carrying said ruffle finger;
• a vertical shaft pivoted in said work supporting arm and said bracket arm and in driving connection with said arm shaft;
• an eccentric secured to said vertical shaft;
• a carrier provided with a bearing for receiving said two-armed lever, a hole at one end of said carrier for receiving said eccentric imparting ellipse-shaped motions to said ruffle finger, and pivotal means at the other end of said carrier;
• a cam follower arranged on the other arm of said two-armed lever;
• a cam disk cooperating with said cam follower for imparting up and down motions to said ruffle finger;
• spring means between said carrier and said other arm of said two-armed lever for pressing down said ruffle finger in the direction to the folded margin of said plug;
• and adjusting means for varying the tension of said spring means.

In a machine for sewing together a vamp and a plug of true moccasin footwear, comprising:

• a work supporting arm;
• a bracket arm;
• stitch forming means including a needle, an arm shaft pivoted in said bracket arm for driving said needle, and a looptaker;
• a throat plate;
• a lower feed dog;
• a feed dog carrier for receiving and moving said feed dog in a four motion path within a recess of said throat plate;
• an upper feed dog operating in a four motion path adjacent and opposite to said needle and having a toothed base for imparting longitudinal work compressing motions to said vamp;
• and an intermediate member arranged between said plug and said vamp and in front of the path of motion of said needle for preventing a ruffling of said plug by said upper feed dog;
• means for forming a bead seam by said plug having a foldable margin protruding over the edge of said vamp and including:
• an edge guiding member secured to said upper feed dog and having a forming wall for prefolding said margin of said plug and surmounting said throat plate and a recess in said forming wall;
• a second intermediate member attached to said upper feed dog and having a sliding surface and being toothed at the base like said upper feed dog, and located between said vamp and said folded margin of said plug and in front of said needle;
• a folding and ruffling finger for folding said prefolded margin of said plug about the edge of said vamp and said second intermediate member, and slideably received in said recess of said forming wall;
• first driving means for said folding and ruffling finger for imparting movements in feed direction;
• and second driving means imparting movements perpendicular to the feed direction to said finger for finally folding said prefolded protruding edge of said plug.