Composition and process for the treatment of keratinic materials based on fluorine derivatives

A cosmetic composition for use in the treatment of keratinic material including the hair and skin comprising in an aqueous medium

• (a) at least one fluorine derivative of the formula selected from the group consisting of (1) Gf--Z, (2) (GF--O).sub.2 PO.sub.2 H, wherein Z represents --COOH, --SO.sub.3 H, --OSO.sub.3 H, --OPO.sub.2 H and --OPO.sub.3 H.sub.2, and
• Gf represents a fluorinated radical of the formula ##STR16## wherein m is 1-20, s is equal to 0 to 1, t is 0-20 and R.sub.1 represents alkyl having 1-20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that when the fluorine derivative has the formula (Gf-O).sub.2 PO.sub.2 H, the Gf moieties can be identical or different, and
• (3) the cosmetically acceptable salts of (1) and (2);
• and
• (b) at least one substantive cationic polymer having a significant number of tertiary or quaternary amine groups and a molecular weight between 500 and about 5,000,000, said substantive cationic polymer being selected from the group consisting of:
• (1) water soluble cyclopolymer having a molecular weight of 20,000 to 3,000,000 and having in the principal chain thereof units selected from the group consisting of ##STR17## wherein R" represents hydrogen or methyl,
• R and R' each independently represent alkyl having 1-22 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl wherein the alkyl moiety has 1-5 carbon atoms, amido lower alkyl, or R and R' together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form piperidenyl or morpholinyl, and
• Y.sup..crclbar. represents an anion selected from the group consisting of bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate;
• (1') copolymer of acrylamide having units of formula II or II' defined above;
• (1") copolymer of diacetone acrylamide having units of formula II or II' defined above;
• (2) a quaternary polyammonium having the formula:
• ##STR18## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 each independently represent an aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radical containing a maximum of 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxy aliphatic radical;
• or the pairs R.sub.1 and R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 and R.sub.4, both or individually, taken with the nitrogen atoms to which each pair is attached form a heterocycle containing optionally a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3 and
• R.sub.4 represent ##STR19## wherein R'.sub.3 represents hydrogen or lower alkyl and R'.sub.4 represents ##STR20## wherein R'.sub.5 represents lower alkyl, R'.sub.6 represents hydrogen or lower alkyl, R'.sub.7 represents alkylene and D represents a quaternary ammonium group;
• A and B represent (1") linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated polymethylene containing 2-20 carbon atoms, (2") the polymethylene of (4") having interposed in its principal chain one or more groups selected from ##STR21## and --CH.sub.2 --Y--CH.sub.2 -- wherein Y represents ##STR22## wherein X.sup..crclbar. represents an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, R'.sub.8 represents hydrogen or lower alkyl and R'.sub.9 represents lower alkyl, (3") A, R.sub.1 and R.sub.3 together with the nitrogen atoms to which R.sub.1 and R.sub.3 are attached form piperazine, or (4") when A represents linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene, B can represent
• --(CH.sub.2).sub.n CO--D--OC--(CH.sub.2).sub.n
• wherein D represents
• (i) the residue of a glycol of the formula --O--Z--O-- where Z represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon or a group having a formula selected from --CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 --O--.sub.x CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 -- and ##STR23## wherein x and y represent a whole number from 1 to 4 thereby representing a definite degree of polymerization or x and y represent any number from 1 to 4 thereby representing an average degree of polymerization, ##STR24## (iii) --NH--Y--NH-- wherein Y represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or --CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 --S--S--CH.sub.2 --CH.sub.2 --, and
• (iv) --NH--CO--NH--;
• X is an anion selected from chloride and bromide;
• and
• n is such that the molecular mass of the said quaternary polyammonium is between 1,000 and 100,000;
• (3) a polyamino amide;
• (4) a crosslinked polyamino amide selected from the group consisting of
• (a) water soluble crosslinked polyamino amide obtained by crosslinking a polyamino amid prepared by polycondensing an acid with a polyamine, the crosslinking being effected with a crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated anhydride and a bis-unsaturated derivative, the amount of crosslinking agent comprises between 0.025 and 0.35 mole per amine group in said polyaminoamide,
• (b) water soluble polyaminoamide obtained by crosslinking the polyaminoamide obtained as in (a) with a crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of
• (I) a compound selected from the group consisting of a bis halohydrin, a bis azetidinium, a diamine bis haloacyl and an alkyl bis halide,
• (II) an oligomer obtained by reacting a compound selected from the group consisting of a compound of (I) defined above, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide and a bis unsaturated derivative with a bifunctional compound reactive therewith, and
• (III) the quaternization product of (a) a compound defined in I or (b) an oligomer defined in II above, having one or more totally of partially alkylatable tertiary amine groups with an alkylating agent, the crosslinking being effected by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of said polyaminoamide, and
• (c) water soluble polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by an alkylation by bifunctional agents, obtained by reacting epichlorohydrin with secondary amines or tertiary N,N'-alkylene diamine, the alkylene chain being able to be interrupted by a ureylene group, or a mixture of these amines;
• (5) polymer obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine having two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of diglycolic acid and a saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 3-8 carbon atoms, the molar ratio of said polyalkylene polyamine to said dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1, the resulting polyamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine group of said polyamide between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1;
• (6) polymer carrying in its chain vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units;
• and
• (7) polyalkylene imines.