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AssigneesCentre National De La Recherche Scientifique, Universite De Strasbourg, Guerlain
InventorsCharlotte Simmler, Virginie Leplanquais, Emmanuelle Noblesse, Patrice Andre, Annelise Lobstein
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The invention relates to novel eucomic acid (2-(4-hydroxybenzyl)malic acid) derivatives or plant extracts comprising such derivatives, and also to cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing these compounds or these extracts, and to cosmetic care methods using said compositions. Exemplary compounds are represented by formula (I) below: in which, with the proviso that R1, R2 and R3 are not simultaneously a hydrogen atom, R1 and R3 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, preferably C1-C12, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising an aromatic group, preferably a phenyl, said aromatic group being preferably substituted with a group comprising a sugar, preferably a monosaccharide or disaccharide, said chain optionally also comprising one or more heteroatoms preferably chosen from O, S and N, and R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a sugar, preferably a monosaccharide or disaccharide, said sugar being optionally substituted, in particular with a residue comprising a saturated or unsaturated, preferably C1-C12, hydrocarbon-based chain itself comprising an aromatic group, preferably a phenyl, said hydrocarbon-based chain optionally also comprising one or more heteroatoms preferably chosen from O, S and N.
A compound of formula (I),
2-33. (canceled)
The extract of claim 6 wherein it is obtained from at least one part of an orchid, in particular of an orchid belonging to the Papilionanthe, Vanda or Encyclia genus.
The extract of claim 6 wherein it is obtained from the orchid Papilionanthe teres, in particular from stems or roots of said orchid.
The extract of claim 6 wherein it comprises a compound selected from the group consisting of 4-(4-β-D-glucopyranosyloxybenzyl)-(2R)-2-(p-hydroxybenzyl)-malate (VT1), 1,4-bis(4-β-D-glucopyranosyloxybenzyl)-(2R)-2-(p-hydroxybenzyl)-malate (VT2) and 4-bis(4-β-D-glucopyranosyloxybenzyl)-(2R)-2-(2-β-D-glucopyranosyl-3-trans-cinnamoyl ester)-2-(p-hydroxybenzyl)-malate (VT3).
The extract of claim 9 wherein it comprises one or more compounds chosen from VT1 and/or VT2 at a cumulative content of greater than 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the dry extract, preferably greater than 60%, and more preferably greater than 80%.
The extract of claim 9 wherein it comprises the VT3 compound at a content of greater than 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the dry extract, preferably greater than 15% by weight.
The extract of claim 9 wherein the extract is made up of at least 80% by weight of the VT1, VT2 and VT3 compounds, relative to the total weight of the dry extract, preferably at least 90% by weight.
A method for cosmetic care selected from combating skin aging, in particular for reducing or delaying the effects of skin aging, restructuring the epidermis, firming the skin, promoting the reduction or resorption of wrinkles and the protective properties of the epidermis, and/or for maintaining or improving skin moisturization and/or for promoting skin healing, said method comprising applying to the areas of skin that are involved a cosmetic composition as defined in claim 13 in an amount effective for achieving the indicated effect.
Dependencies are inferred from the claim text.